Focus Mountaineering

Today I spent  an excellent day with Caroline and Kate looking at the core winter mountaineering skills of using snow anchors to move safely and securely on steep exposed slopes.  A rise in temperatures overnight has caused a lot of moisture to form in the snow pack but we didn’t observe much instability. The freezing level is forecast to drop again over the next few days which will set the snow pack nicely. I was working for Glenmore Lodge today.

I’ve been out and about in the Northern Cairngorms this last week. We’ve been spoilt with another long period of stable weather which has brought a few snow flurries on the lightest northerly breezes. The snow cover continues to be superb and plenty of folk are out making the most of it. Climbing conditions are also pretty good but its worth noting that rock protection is hard to come by as the buttresses are so well rimed and cracks are choked with ice. Its interesting to note that these conditions are quite different from recent years where we haven’t had such long periods of stable ‘proper’ winter without warm atlantic fronts sweeping through. Many mixed lines are now in the condition that they were in for their first ascents rather than having to revert to the recent techniques of clearing away useless snow to climb bare rock.

I decided to ignore the forecast today and went for an opportunistic look at Ben Wyvis’s remote corries. The gamble didn’t pay off and we made the sensible decision to retreat from close to the summit with strong south-easterly winds and thick mist.  The snow cover is much reduced and the remaining snow pack below 850m is saturated.

I headed back to Creag Meagaidh today to climb Smith’s Gully (VI,5) with Ali and Pat. Smith’s Gully is well worth its 4 star status being sustained and challenging for its 180m length. It was another excellent day with blue skies and no wind. There was only a dusting of new snow which, by all accounts is a lot less than most other parts of the highlands.

I have just had 2 superb days climbing at Creag Meagaidh which is in good condition. Quite a few folk have been climbing there recently but its a big venue with a lot of quality routes so don’t be put off by a full car park. It still pays to be early at the weekend to get pick of the routes.

On Saturday I climbed South Post Direct (V,4) with Bill and yesterday Pat joined me to climb Centre Post Direct (V,5). The crux ice pitch on Centre Post is a serious undertaking at the moment being long, steep and sustained to a peg belay (not in situ).

Winter 2010 sees the introduction of a new expanded MCofS Winter Lecture Series. Following on from the success at the Clachaig Inn each winter, the lectures will now run from three different locations.

The Clachaig Inn, Glencoe (Tuesday evenings)

The Mountain Cafe, Aviemore (Wednesday evenings)

The Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team Base (Thursday evenings)

The focus of the lectures is to entertain and educate on winter mountain safety. In order to deliver this, an inspiring array of speakers has been chosen who are guaranteed to provide an entertaining night out! All the speakers have spent many years in the mountains and will draw upon their own experiences to illustrate hard lessons learnt. Each presentation will last approx 45 minutes and there will be opportunity at the end of each evening for any questions. Whether you are a hardened climber, or up in the Highlands for your first winter experience, you can ensure a good night out and learn something new.

The MCofS Winter Lecture Series is free of charge and open to all. http://www.mcofs.org.uk/winterlectureseries.asp

Fort William Mountain Festival 11th to 15th February 2010.

• Andy Kirkpatrick hosts the Extreme Night.
• Paul Diffley from Hot Aches screening Single Handed plus The Asgard Project on the Adventure Night.
• Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner celebrate Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith’s incredible first ascents on Ben Nevis 50 years on with Jimmy Marshall himself.
• Best of Banff World Tour.

More details at http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/

Laura and I made the best of a day off today with an excellent day skiing at Lecht. The snow conditions were superb with a soft covering over a firm base and some sneaky powder between the pistes. The whole place was pretty quiet (the benefit of opportunist mid-week skiing) but it was just a shame that not all the lift were open.

I was climbing on the Fiacaill Buttress today with James and rope gun Mark. We made rapid ascents of The Seam, Seam-stress and Belhaven. The crag was in excellent nick with thick hoar and solid neve even if the gear took a bit of finding. Otherwise the corrie was busy with teams all over Fluted and Alladin’s buttresses. There was a thin covering of fresh snow last night which has left the Corrie Cas pistes in excellent condition.

I have just stumbled across this excellent short video which highlights the risks and problems associated with skiing on glaciers. (It also shows the thrills and scenery of high glacial terrain nicely too!!!!) Filmed last winter by British mountain guide Andy Perkins and Courchevel ski instructor Simon Christy on the Valley Blanche above Chamonix, the video will be played at Chamonix ski lifts over the winter. It’s about 7mins long and well worth a look.