Snow, Snow, Snow

Saturday, February 27th, 2010

This last week has definitely been a week of 2 halves. On Wednesday the snow arrived in force with about 2 feet falling in 24hrs. The difficulty in getting around meant using snow shoes was the only sensible means of travel and I spent 2 enjoyable days touring the local area whilst looking at navigation skills and snow (in)stability tests.

The avalanche hazard rose considerably with the fresh snow fall and is still extremely serious. The recent surface hoar formations have been buried under a thick layer of unconsolidated powder and I have witnessed some extreme instabilities in the snow pack with cracks shooting out on the surface of the snow under just my body weight, thin 20m square slabs detaching on 20 degree slopes and test pits collapsing whilst being dug. Be careful out there and keep an eye on the avalanche forecasts. On a positive note views up towards the Northern Corries this afternoon showed some scoured ridges and slopes. The Cairngorm ski road has been closed since the new snow fall but Cairngorm Mountain hope to open for some skiing tomorrow.

Snow shoe 1Snow shoe 2Glenmore

Ben Macdui

Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010

BraeriachBen MacduiThe current spell of good weather looks like its about to change so I decided to make the most of another superb day and headed over to Ben Macdui. This was day 2 of a Glenmore Lodge winter skills course and was quite an ambitious undertaking for my group who had only ever put winter boots on for the first time yesterday. The team did well and were rewarded with spectacular views in all directions. In particular we had clear views into Braeriach’s eastern corries and could even make out Ben Nevis in the West.

Alpine Cairngorms

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Snow holeP1000686Today was the first day of a 5 day winter skills course I’m running for Glenmore Lodge. I spent the day looking at winter footwork skills and self arrest techniques before stumbling upon the rabbit warren of snow holes in the morraines at the head of Corrie an t’Sneachda. Another summer alpine day with blue skies, suncream and shades. Jacob’s Ladder, Alladin’s Couloir and point 5 gully have all been skied in the last few days.

Superb Day!

Sunday, February 21st, 2010

P1000665Excellent journey up the Fiacaill Ridge and over the summit of Cairngorm today. It was another superb day to be on the hills today. There is a lot of soft snow on the Cairngorm plateau that would make walking very tiresome if there weren’t such excellent trails and trenches along popular route. Its also worth noting that there are vast quantities of surface hoar on the snow pack as a result of the recent windless, cold, clear days. This could cause a significant avalanche hazard if it is buried under new snow without being destroyed by strong winds or a thaw.

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Coire Laogh Mor

Saturday, February 20th, 2010

I went into Coire Laogh Mor with my winter skills group from Glenmore Lodge today to look at core footwork and self arrest techniques. Driving down from Inverness this morning I could see the Cairngorm and Braeriach massifs bathed in sunshine and sticking through a low lying cloud inversion. This quickly lifted and I spent most of the day with sunglasses on. Lots of people out on skis enjoying the awesome snow. It looks like another superb day tomorrow so get out there and don’t forget the sun cream.

P1000656P1000663Surface Hoar

New Route on Liathach

Friday, February 19th, 2010

Gully 7Martin on the cruxYesterday was one of those special days in the Scottish mountains. I spent a perfect day climbing a new route in Coire na Caime on Liathach with Roger and Martin where we climbed a new mixed route straight up the buttress to the right of the ice line of Jerbil. Its yet to be named but has a particularly tricky 30m crux pitch at about VII, 7. We were treated to great company, perfect weather, a photogenic cloud inversion on the walk in, and an excellent climbing. A bit tired today though – I left home at 6, we didn’t stop all day, climbed the last 2 pitches and traversed the Am Fasarinen pinnacles in the dark and got back home at 1am. Excellent!!

1 pitch to go
Roger and MartinThe top


Snowy Ben Nevis

Monday, February 15th, 2010

I headed up Ben Nevis today with Si and Martin. There had been a great deal of new snow overnight which prompted us to head for high ground and have a crack at Tower Ridge. I’ve done this route a few times in both summer and winter but the going was just too slow today with the ridge under a thick layer of powder. Snow continued to fall throughout the day and we made the sensible decision to descend before we got too high.

Not surprisingly, Ledge Route was busy today and views of the Orion Face  and Point Five area looked promising but the approaches are probably not too sensible until the new snow settles.

Si and MartinPoint 5Minus and Orion Faces

Winter Mountaineering Course

Sunday, February 14th, 2010

Snow BollardToday I spent  an excellent day with Caroline and Kate looking at the core winter mountaineering skills of using snow anchors to move safely and securely on steep exposed slopes.  A rise in temperatures overnight has caused a lot of moisture to form in the snow pack but we didn’t observe much instability. The freezing level is forecast to drop again over the next few days which will set the snow pack nicely. I was working for Glenmore Lodge today.

Weekly Update

Saturday, February 13th, 2010

P1000556I’ve been out and about in the Northern Cairngorms this last week. We’ve been spoilt with another long period of stable weather which has brought a few snow flurries on the lightest northerly breezes. The snow cover continues to be superb and plenty of folk are out making the most of it. Climbing conditions are also pretty good but its worth noting that rock protection is hard to come by as the buttresses are so well rimed and cracks are choked with ice. Its interesting to note that these conditions are quite different from recent years where we haven’t had such long periods of stable ‘proper’ winter without warm atlantic fronts sweeping through. Many mixed lines are now in the condition that they were in for their first ascents rather than having to revert to the recent techniques of clearing away useless snow to climb bare rock.

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Windy on Ben Wyvis

Friday, February 5th, 2010

Ben WyvisI decided to ignore the forecast today and went for an opportunistic look at Ben Wyvis’s remote corries. The gamble didn’t pay off and we made the sensible decision to retreat from close to the summit with strong south-easterly winds and thick mist.  The snow cover is much reduced and the remaining snow pack below 850m is saturated.