Coire Sputan Dearg

Sunday, November 29th, 2009

Coire Sputan Dearg 3Will and I made the long journey over to Corie Sputan Dearg yesterday to try a route that we had our eye on. Unfortunately we had little success on our intended objective but Will saved the day with a superb lead of the Janus Chimney (III, 4). The route can’t have seen many ascents and is massively under graded  in current condition – I’ve no idea what would be required to achieve the grade.

The plateau is covered in a layer a thick powder and would make excellent ski touring as long at the wind doesn’t pick up to scour it too much.  Climbing conditions remain unchanged with lots of useless powder accumulations but hoar frost is building and the turf is starting to freeze where it is not too insulated by the snow.


Coire Sputan Dearg 1Coire Sputan Dearg 2Coire Sputan Dearg 4

Coire an t-Sneachda

Friday, November 27th, 2009

I had a trip out into Coire an t-Sneachda today with Danny. There is plenty of dry snow lying and quite a few teams were out getting in some early season climbing. Despite the abundant snow, the turf is not properly frozen yet and there was hardly any hoaring on the buttresses – plenty to go at but sensible route choice required as always. The freezing level is set to lower significantly with more snow forecast so looks like winter is finally here to stay.

Sneachda Fiacaill Buttress

Danny

Cairngorm Conditions

Sunday, November 8th, 2009

Coire an Lochain panoramaI headed into the Northern Corries today to see how the winter climbing conditions were developing now that the temperatures have started dropping. The answer…  developing but not really there yet.

East facing aspects at the top of Corrie an Lochain had hoared up reasonably but there was little coverage lower down. The slightly lower Coire an t-Sneachda was looking a lot poorer but we did manage to find a high, well frozen pitch to dust the cobwebs off on. Climbing aside, it was an absolutely great day on the plateau with blue skies, no wind and a covering of thin snow. More photos on Will’s blog.

Coire an t-Sneachdap1000184