On Saturday I finished my week back in Scotland by guiding a group up Ben Nevis on the first stage of their 24hr 3 peak challenge for Maximum Adventure. The mountain was busy with lots of other three peak challengers and only the top 300m of the mountain were in the cloud. Ideally teams need need to be up and down the Ben within 6 hrs to give plenty of time for Scafell and Snowdon . I hope the guys weren’t too delayed on their drive south by the Scottish Open at Loch Lomomd.
Ben Nevis – 3 Peaks Ascent
July 11th, 2010Rock Improver Course
July 11th, 2010
I’ve spent the week with Ian running a Rock Improver Course for Glenmore Lodge. Ian is a well travelled and experienced mountaineer who was looking for an enjoyable week of climbing and coaching on technique and rope work. We had a great week climbing lots of routes at a number of different venues (Cummingston, Coire an t-Sneachda, Logie Head, Huntely’s Cave and Kingussie Crag) whilst working on efficient movement over the rock and safe protection systems. Despite a showery and blustery week across Scotland, Ian and I stayed dry and sheltered until the final morning when we were rained off the crags which give a welcome opportunity to head back to base and look at a range of important self rescue skills (ascending ropes, assisted hoists, unassisted hoists, escaping the system, abseiling past a knot).
Horseshoe Quarry
July 3rd, 2010
Crispin and I have had a great day of bolt clipping at Horseshoe Quarry today. This great venue on the Eastern Edge of the Peak District offers range of quality sports climbing (if you ignore the lose chossy bits). We spent most of the day on the upper tier climbing a number of routes up to 6c. Its been another warm day here in the Peak but I’m heading back up to Scotland tomorrow where it sounds like things have been a bit damper.
Dutch Invasion
June 25th, 2010
Andy, Bill, Danny and Derek continued working with the Dutch army guys this week out of Kinlochleven. A much ‘greener’ week where the troops were dropped off at a number of sites by Spean Bridge/Roy Bridge area and given 3 days to make it back to Kinlochleven undetected with the attached mountaineering instructors keeping a watchful eye on the teams’ safety. Another superb few days on the West Coast has left the visitors with a great experience in unusual terrain and, more importantly, heading home with impressive sun tans (and maybe a few midge bites). Thanks to Danny for the photos.
Skye Scrambling
June 20th, 2010Where is everyone? I made a quick one day dash to Skye yesterday to guide Terry on her last Skye Munros. We made excellent progress from the Sligachan to the col between Am Basteir and Sgur nan Gillean and were yet again treated to clear summits all to ourselves. We only bumped into a few teams on the hills and the campsite site and pub were pretty empty. Surely everyone isn’t stuck inside glued to the football? Well done Terry – they’re in the bag now.
Polldubh Cragging
June 20th, 2010
I had a day off from work on Thursday so headed into Glen Nevis with Adam to spend the day on the extensive Polldubh crags. We headed up to the Styx Buttress warming up on a number of routes before Adam made a great attempt fighting to the top of Black Friday (E4/E5 depending on who you believe). We finished the day with a quick ascent of Storm; the 4* uber-classic on Cavalry Crack Buttress. A slight breeze and brilliant sunshine kept the midges away.
Fantastic West Coast Conditions
June 18th, 2010
I’ve been based on the West Coast this week working with a large group from the Dutch Army who have come over to experience some proper mountains (the highest point in the Netherlands is only 322m above sea level). Focus Mountaineering has been hired in a consultancy role to ensure their plans are safe and then provide mountaineering instructors to look after them on the hill. With high pressure established, the troops have seen Lochaber at its best with walks around The Mamore Forest, Ben Nevis Summit and scrambles on the Ring of Steall and in Glencoe. Next week looks a bit more interesting for them…
West Coast Walking
May 29th, 2010I’ve spent the week on the West Coast working with a group from the Dutch Police for Mountainplan. The week started with an ascent of the Cobbler in the Arrochar Alps in glorious sunshine followed by Ben Nevis by the CMD arete, a day in Glen Nevis and finally a snowy ascent of Bidean nam Bian in Glencoe. With a low pressure system established over the UK for the latter part of the week, the group experienced all the Scottish mountain seasons in the week (sometime all in one day!) I’ve included some photos of Ben Nevis taken on Tuesday to show the remaining snow although there has been another dusting since.
Wet days on Skye
May 23rd, 2010
I was back on Skye at the end of last week in some pretty damp weather. On Wednesday I helped Allison complete her last Skye Munro of Am Basteir and then James joined me on Thursday and Friday with the aim of climbing the 8 Munros at the Southern end of the Cuillin Ridge which we easily achieved despite challenging conditions. Skye is undoubtedly home to the most challenging Munros with all involving different degrees of scrambling and rock climbing so its great to help such committed hillwalker achieve their goals.
Creag Ghlas
May 18th, 2010James and I visited Creag Ghlas in Strathconan yesterday and climbed Chameleon (E2, 5c), Toad Hall (E2, 5b) and Spoils of War (E1,5b).
The crag is often used as a nesting site for Golden Eagles but we were led to believe that the nest is not being used this year. However, I can confirm that there is an occupied nest and so the crag is best avoided for the time being. More info on the MCofS site here and here.

















